Showing posts with label museums. Show all posts
Showing posts with label museums. Show all posts

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Does this make you want to flop 'em out?

What do you think of this image?

Hint: It's not from a fashion catalogue. 

Let's zoom in:
Why is this child wearing a bathing suit that gives us a weird x-ray view of her kidneys, bladder and colon?

Actually, the picture comes from Tuoi Tre News who have a reasonably good article today about how malnutrition is causing stunted grown in around 30% of Vietnamese children.  The government is blaming this problem on a lack of breastfeeding, and products being sold to Vietnamese parents a nutritional supplements that are very poor quality - specifically: infant formulas.

The image used in the article is odd - but the article itself is good and points at a big problem in the Vietnamese infant feeding market. You might think it strange that I'm talking about infant feeding as a marketplace, but that's exactly what it is.  Every Vietnamese supermarket I've been into has an entire aisle devoted to infant formula products.

Daycare centers and kindergartens are easy to spot, because they all seem to be sponsored by infant formula companies which paint colourful cartoonish murals on the outside walls.

This article from 2009 describes the aggressive push by infant formula companies in Vietnam.  The law here is clear, that breastfeeding should be promoted and that marketing infant formulas in hospitals and the like is forbidden - but it is not well observed. The situation is unchanged now in 2011 - probably worse.


When she heard my mother was coming, my Vietnamese friend asked me to get my mother to bring cans of infant formula for her 2 and a half year old daughter. Vietnamese people are suspicious of the quality of the formulas they are feeding their children, and yet steadfastly believe that they should be feeding their children special formulated foods.  The irony of this is that an adult Vietnamese diet (assuming the family are living somewhere above the poverty line) is rich in vegetables, fruit and fish. Many Asian people cannot easily digest lactose and do well to stay away from milk, cheese, ice-cream and yogurt - and yet still get plenty of protein from tofu and soy-based products, as well as some calcium from fish and small animal bones and other items that are not part of a typical western diet*.  If the toddlers were eating what their parents ate - instead of over-boiled rice mushed with thick infant formula - they would most likely have a much healthier diet.

A further irony is that these formula products are favoured by Vietnam's growing middle classes.  They are very expensive to buy, and have been successfully marketed as somewhat of a luxury item.  This may explain why parents are so willing to pay such a premium for them to feed to children who are well past the age of being needed to be bottle-fed.

If there's something that really astounds me about the problem of breastfeeding in Vietnam, it's that breastfeeding is something that - on the face of it - is well respected here.  There are many many artworks and public monuments depicting breastfeeding mothers. 



The aptly-named "Unfinished Suck" from the second floor of the Southern Women's Museum shows a woman reaching for her gun. She has been interrupted whilst feeding her baby. This is a terribly affecting piece of work - as the expression on the faces of both the woman and her baby make you think that perhaps it is too late.

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The detail in the image below is the central focus of another huge painting on the same floor.  It shows a baby attempting to suckle from a woman who has been killed a battle.


And here is the whole painting (click on it to see a bigger version):


Here is another depiction of a woman soldier breastfeeding, but it is much more tenderly evocative. I look at it and imagine that the artist was drawing a woman and a child he knows and loves - perhaps his wife was the model? This one is in the Fine Arts Museum which is not far from Ben Thanh Market.



Breastfeeding also plays a part in literature any myth, whereas, I can't think of a traditional children's story from the West that talks about breast-feeding.  Take the milk-apple, for example.  According to myth, it is named for breastmilk.  Once upon a time, a naughty boy ran away from home. His mother waited for him to return under the leaves of a tree. When he never returned, she became the tree - and its fruit is the milk-apple - still waiting for him to feed him when he comes home.

Maybe the success of the infant and toddler formula market in Vietnam is a allegorical of the triumph of commercial advertising over art, or over propaganda (or both). But it is heartbreaking to see children who are genuinely loved, and whose parents want only the best for them literally dying from malnutrition - even those children who don't feel hungry.

I don't know what we as expats in Vietnam can do. Surely using all those same strategies to promote breastfeeding that are used all the time in the West is a good idea - breastfeed in public, encourage new mothers to breastfeed, if you are an employer - make sure any breastfeeding mothers on staff have time and space to feed or express milk.  Maybe don't buy formula for your friends' toddlers.

And finally: Don't demonise or ostracise those mothers who do choose to use formula to feed their infants.  Remember that infant formulas save very many more babies than they kill when the mothers can't or won't breastfeed for whatever reason. Breast is best, but I would rather a woman who doesn't breastfeed gives her baby infant formula than rice soaked in cow's milk and porkfat - wouldn't you?  Unless of course you're trying to make zombie babies:




*Soymilk in Vietnam is usually served fresh and therefore not fortified with calcium the way it is in the west.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Cham towers at Quy Nhon

In my previous post I mentioned the Cham minority (remember the muslim costume?).  But then I remembered that I'm a pretty crap blogger and haven't told you anything about the Cham sites we touristed at on our little 'welcome to Vietnam' trip up the coast.


This is what I know about the Cham people. Modern Cham, who are a minority ethnic group in Vietnam are descendants of the Champa Kingdom which reigned in central Vietnam from the 7th to the 15th centuries AD.   There's a whole lot of stuff about the Champa Kingdom here for those who are interested - but I'll be honest with you - I've only really looked at the pictures on that site.  The Champa Kingdom was eventually defeated by the Viet, and one of their legacies has been these beautiful ruins that are dotted about the country.




In Quy Nhon there are two virtually complete towers standing in an area quite close to the center of the city, so while we were there we took some time to go and see them.

 Image modified slightly to protect the innocent.


The towers are in such good condition that you can get inside them, so of course we went up.  You can see that those steps are very steep - almost as tall as my knee.  They're also very shallow - you have to turn your foot on the side to get full purchase, or climb on tippy-toe.  I just went very slowly.  And apparently the whole world could see up my skirt (that was the last time I wore that dress out of the house!).  Mr Martin was very amused.

The towers were built as places of worship, and they're still used as places of worship today. At the top of the stairs in each room was a small room with a simple altar.



Joss sticks were provided in the corner by the door - and a lighter, too.


I felt a little sad that the incense sticks weren't in a nice container - Slide is brand of imitation pringles potato chips.  The style of worship here is undoubtedly not like the style of worship at the time these structures were built around 1300 years ago. But it is definitely still a very holy place.  Incense sticks were wedged in a few cracks in the wall here and there, as well as on the table.


I was sort of reminded of some of the ancient tombs in Orkney that have Viking graffiti scratched in the walls.  These towers have graffiti scratched in the brick walls, too. Who knows how old it is, though.  Some of the names look French:


Seeing these photos again reminds me of the builders on my street.  Vietnam is a country of brickworks!  The Champa were master brickworkers, and they were also master stone carvers.





This is a frieze from around the base of the second tower.  There are still a few carvings higher up on the outside of the towers, but most works have long gone.  There are lots of examples of the kind of work at the Quy Nhon museum.  There are alcoves in the towers, for example where this would fit perfectly. 



When you get inside the towers, be sure to look up:



None of the pictures I took could give justice to experience of looking up through those long chambers.  It made me think of the stories people tell who have been resurrected from near-death experiences of the 'long tunnel' that leads towards the light.



I also speculated that it might have a telescopic effect on the stars at night.  Does anybody know if that speculation makes any sense?  I've heard that from the bottom of a well you can see stars during the day.



Those trees would not have been there originally.  They're not even really trees - they are self-seeded plants that are growing directly in the mortar at the top of the tower.  I think I've mentioned before that the plant life in Vietnam is extremely tenacious.


Dioxin aside, there is nothing standing in the way of new life in beautiful lush Vietnam.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Women's Museum - Part 2

Vietnam has a lot of museums.  They are of varying quality, but so far we have enjoyed every one we have visited.  A couple of weeks ago we went to the Southern Women's Museum in Saigon.  This museum was so good that I have at least one more post about it up my sleeve after this - so this one is a series!

In my last post, I talked about the looms and fabric production that is displayed on the first floor.  The second half of the first floor covers costume and dress.  After seeing the traditional fabrics being woven, we are also shown the dress made up.



You can still see the ethnic minorities who make these beautiful clothes dressed in the traditional garb in some places in Vietnam, and in other places around South East Asia too.  Traditionally, many of the hill tribe populations were nomadic, so their customs of dress and skills as weavers and embroiderers followed them throughout the region.

Large numbers of the Cham ethnic minority who were responsible for building the breath-taking towers at My Son and other sites, converted to Islam after their final defeat by the Viet.  They are not forgotten in the Women's Museum, and an example of their beautiful silk costume is on display.



There is also a really great example of a Chinese Wedding costume on display.  Vietnam has at various times been under Chinese occupation, and so wedding costumes like this were in use in parts of Vietnam as recently as 150 years ago.



It is an extremely elaborate costume with silk tassels, embroidery, sequins and a headdress that looks so heavy I don't know how the poor girl would be able to hold her head up!  I'm not sure about the exact provenance of this example, but given the expense and time that must have gone into one of these, I imagine that they would have been handed down between generations and added to or altered with each new bride.

The Vietnamese national costume that is still in use is the ao dai. In its current version it is a sleek, tight fitting tunic over loose-fitting trousers.  The tunic has split sides from just below the bust down, leaving a little triangular peek of flesh above the waistline of the trousers.  They are very commonly worn today - not just for special occasions at all. The girl who sits on reception in my apartment building wears one as part of her uniform.

I was really interested to learn about the history of the ao dai in the museum.  It is a relatively modern national costume - I think it began to be worn about 250 years ago. And it is had undergone many small changes in that time.  It is a fashion that changes rapidly, just as any other fashion does.  At times, the tunic has been loose fitting, at times a cross over style, some times short, and sometimes long.


 This example was made for a wedding in the early 20th century.  It is much more loose fitting than the modern ones which tend to have raglan sleeves and cling tightly to the  bust!  Like the Chinese wedding costume it is lucky red, and has a headdress and collar that reaches over the bust - though it's much less extravagant!



I was really interested in the belt and armband.  What are they made of?  It is a row of glistening metallic green curved plates, sewn on to a strip of leather.  This was made in a pre-plastic era, and while it's possible that it could be some kind of brilliant paint on metal moulded thingies - I think they look like wingcases of some kind of metallic insect. There is nothing written about it on display information, and there was no one around to ask.  What do you think?

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Happy Woman Day!

Today, March 8th, is International Women's Day.  It's not really celebrated in New Zealand, and I had never heard of it before.  In Vietnam, however, it seems to be a proper commercial holiday just like Valentine's Day and Mother's Day.  There signs proclaiming 'Happy Woman Day!' in all the shop windows.

(For Valentines Day this year I got a box set of nature DVDs.  I wonder what Women's Day will bring me?)

Fittingly, then, we went to the Southern Women's Museum on Saturday. What a cool museum!  One of the best we've seen in Vietnam so far.

Take home message - Vietnamese women are mothers and fighters

You are greeted at the entrance by 30 foot high statue of an old woman.  It's not a subject that is widely represented in public artworks - so I thought she was extra special.

I really like the way her legs are
clearly outlined beneath her trousers. 
She is very strong.
Old mother has no teeth but she is not stooped
The first floor of the museum is all about costumes and womens work in making textiles.  I love textile arts, and so this whole floor was wonderful to me. There were all sorts of different looms on display...

Reed mat loom

Reed mat on the loom


Fine silk loom





Silk loom detail
Skeins of silk being stretched before being used on the next...
Loom for making traditional rough silk woven textiles

And the finished product...